Tuesday, 7/18/06 at 1:57 PM
by Sara Jarrell
by Sara Jarrell
Get to Know... The Parts of the Bike
Sometimes the most intimidating part of getting into cycling can be actually understanding what the heck all those little parts on the bike do and what they are called. Going into a shop to buy a bike can easily turn into a mess if the sales rep is using terminology that you do not understand. This sort of situation is what leaves many new cyclists flustered not knowing whether to buy a bike or pick up different sport. This brief glossary is an attempt at demystifying all those little parts that make a bicycle so the next time a sales rep uses the lingo you can follow along and feel good about your inquires.
Parts of the Bicycle:
brake lever - the hand lever used to activate the brakes. Mountain bike brake levers have reach adjustments to accommodate smaller hands; a brake lever shim can be used on road bike brake levers to shorten the reach.
chain - it transfers the energy from the motion of the pedals to the back wheel and propels the bike.
chainring- the wheel(s) on which the chain is held, near the pedals. A bike can have as many as three chainrings and as few as one and come in many different sizes. The chainrings are joined to the cranks, which are the main connection between the chainrings and the pedals.
derailleur - bikes with multiple gears often have front and rear derailleurs, which shift the chain to various positions. The front derailleur moves the chain to different chainrings. In the rear, there is a cluster of gears called a freewheel or a cassette. The individual gears are called cogs. The rear derailleur moves the chain from one cog to another.
down tube - the tube that attaches the head tube to the bottom bracket (a bearing point on the frame where the chainrings, pedals, and cranks attach to the bike).
front brake – the mechanism fastened to the front fork below the handlebars that stop the front wheel when pressure is applied to the front brake lever.
front fork – attaches the front wheel to the bicycle aids in steering the bicycle in the direction you want to go. It’s also where you will find your front brakes on some bikes.
handlebars - where you hold onto the bicycle to steer it. Handlebars come in many different shapes and sizes that allow you to customize the fit and/or style of your bicycle.
hub - the central part of a wheel housing bearings that allows the wheel to spin around the axle.
rear brake – the mechanism used to stop the rear wheel when pressure is applied to the rear brake lever. Sometimes bikes come with coaster brakes that stop the rear wheel from spinning when one pedals backwards.
rim - the outer metal support of the wheel that is connected to the hub by the spokes to create the wheel.
saddle –aka- seat – where you sit. There are woman specific saddles that will make your ride much more enjoyable.
seat tube - the tube that supports the seat post.
seat post - it supports the seat.
shift levers - the levers on the handlebars or downtubes on older road bikes used to shift gears. They differ depending on the type of bike.
spokes - the thin, metal wires that attach the rim to the hub to create the wheel.
stem – the point on the bike that connects the handlebars to the fork and allows one to steer the bicycle. Stems can be threaded or threadless and are sized for 1”, 11/8”, and sometimes 11/4”. Stems can accommodate specific size handlebars usually 31.8mm, 26.0mm, or 25.4mm.
tire - the inflated, rubber part of the wheel. Tires come in so many shapes, sizes, and colors you should experiment with this one and find the tires that work the best for your application. [We will talk more about the tire in one of our upcoming blogs, including detailing types and parts.]
top tube - the tube that attaches the handlebar stem to the seat post.
Not labeled in the diagram: the chainstay is the tube that connects the down tube and bottom bracket area to the rear dropouts. The seatstay is the tube that connects the top tube and seat tube to the rear dropouts. The rear dropout is the area of the frame where the chainstays and seatstays join to fasten the rear wheel to the bike. The bottom bracket shell is the area in between the cranks, where the chainstays meet the down tube.
Pedals, also not shown here, enable your feet to power the bicycle. There are many different types of pedals that range from clipless (requiring special shoes and cleats to clip in and out) to platform (just the pedal, without straps or clips).
The road bike shown is also not equipped with front or rear light reflectors, safety devices for better nighttime visibility.
Diving into the world of bicycles can be overwhelming but hopefully this glossary will help you proceed with the confidence to ask questions and further your cycling experience.
Until next time-
Sara and Kelli
Parts of the Bicycle:
brake lever - the hand lever used to activate the brakes. Mountain bike brake levers have reach adjustments to accommodate smaller hands; a brake lever shim can be used on road bike brake levers to shorten the reach.
chain - it transfers the energy from the motion of the pedals to the back wheel and propels the bike.
chainring- the wheel(s) on which the chain is held, near the pedals. A bike can have as many as three chainrings and as few as one and come in many different sizes. The chainrings are joined to the cranks, which are the main connection between the chainrings and the pedals.
derailleur - bikes with multiple gears often have front and rear derailleurs, which shift the chain to various positions. The front derailleur moves the chain to different chainrings. In the rear, there is a cluster of gears called a freewheel or a cassette. The individual gears are called cogs. The rear derailleur moves the chain from one cog to another.
down tube - the tube that attaches the head tube to the bottom bracket (a bearing point on the frame where the chainrings, pedals, and cranks attach to the bike).
front brake – the mechanism fastened to the front fork below the handlebars that stop the front wheel when pressure is applied to the front brake lever.
front fork – attaches the front wheel to the bicycle aids in steering the bicycle in the direction you want to go. It’s also where you will find your front brakes on some bikes.
handlebars - where you hold onto the bicycle to steer it. Handlebars come in many different shapes and sizes that allow you to customize the fit and/or style of your bicycle.
hub - the central part of a wheel housing bearings that allows the wheel to spin around the axle.
rear brake – the mechanism used to stop the rear wheel when pressure is applied to the rear brake lever. Sometimes bikes come with coaster brakes that stop the rear wheel from spinning when one pedals backwards.
rim - the outer metal support of the wheel that is connected to the hub by the spokes to create the wheel.
saddle –aka- seat – where you sit. There are woman specific saddles that will make your ride much more enjoyable.
seat tube - the tube that supports the seat post.
seat post - it supports the seat.
shift levers - the levers on the handlebars or downtubes on older road bikes used to shift gears. They differ depending on the type of bike.
spokes - the thin, metal wires that attach the rim to the hub to create the wheel.
stem – the point on the bike that connects the handlebars to the fork and allows one to steer the bicycle. Stems can be threaded or threadless and are sized for 1”, 11/8”, and sometimes 11/4”. Stems can accommodate specific size handlebars usually 31.8mm, 26.0mm, or 25.4mm.
tire - the inflated, rubber part of the wheel. Tires come in so many shapes, sizes, and colors you should experiment with this one and find the tires that work the best for your application. [We will talk more about the tire in one of our upcoming blogs, including detailing types and parts.]
top tube - the tube that attaches the handlebar stem to the seat post.
Not labeled in the diagram: the chainstay is the tube that connects the down tube and bottom bracket area to the rear dropouts. The seatstay is the tube that connects the top tube and seat tube to the rear dropouts. The rear dropout is the area of the frame where the chainstays and seatstays join to fasten the rear wheel to the bike. The bottom bracket shell is the area in between the cranks, where the chainstays meet the down tube.
Pedals, also not shown here, enable your feet to power the bicycle. There are many different types of pedals that range from clipless (requiring special shoes and cleats to clip in and out) to platform (just the pedal, without straps or clips).
The road bike shown is also not equipped with front or rear light reflectors, safety devices for better nighttime visibility.
Diving into the world of bicycles can be overwhelming but hopefully this glossary will help you proceed with the confidence to ask questions and further your cycling experience.
Until next time-
Sara and Kelli
Comments
I guess the difference can be summed up as a function vs. fashion argument. The mode bikes emphasize fashion and are about making a lifestyle statement. Most of these consumers are traveling short distances and are not concerned about sport performance. Comfort bikes on the other hand are function over fashion-- with performance details that suit commuters and recreational riders.
Depending on how much riding you plan on doing and how far, as well as your preferred riding position (more upright or more forward-leaning), you might want to consider an entry level mountain or road bike which will give you a sportier look with performance details that will make the ride much more enjoyable.
Since you will spend some time on trails, my suggestion would be one of our Rincons or Boulders. You can find these in the Mountain section of our Bike Finder. They both have front suspension which makes rides a lot more comfortable.
Good luck and happy riding,
Giant for Women
I would say that a comfort bike would be fine if you would like to be more upright and in a less aggressive riding position. A mountain bike would work as well but would be a more aggressive riding postition. If you go the mountain bike route I would consider putting hybrid tires on it (hybrid tires would have less rolling resistance than mountain tires).
Happy Biking,
Sara
anway my 1st RAGBRAI was fantastic and I know another will be even better with this bike!
-robyn
A woman's model would have a couple of extra features that set it apart; the shifter brake lever combo would be a shorter reach, the handlebars would be narrower, the stem would be a little shorter, the bike would come with a woman's specific saddle, etc. Having said all that it does not mean that the bike you bought will not work for you. I would check with the shop that you bought the bike from to see if they offer professional fits. The real benifit is having more bikes to choose from so that you can find the bike that fits you the best no matter what kind of bike it is.
Happy Riding,
Sara
Thanks for your response. I've been riding my bike for a week or so now and I have a couple of comments: I bought my bike at Fastrack here in Santa Barbara; the owner is Dave Letteri and he personally fit my bike. (He was Lance Armstrong's mechanic in the 2000 Tour de France). I asked Dave about the differences, because he sells women's models as well as the TCR3 c that i bought. Dave always custom fits a bike and changes out the saddle, changes the stem if needed, and makes sure that the break levers have a shorter reach and fit small hands. So I really think it comes down to the fit. Fastrack only sells road bikes, and they service them for free forever. (I also upgraded my wheels and Dave bought the ones that come standard on the bike back from me).
My husband just saw me coming home from work -- he was on his Kowasaki z1000, so he made a u-turn and came alongside me. He clocked me at 38 miles an hour. No one passes me on this bike, even when I move over for them. I'm no super-athlete, but my new TCR3w has made riding so much easier, and I'm so much faster, that I can't justify getting in my car to go to work any more!
I have no regrets at all. Your advice is great: just find someone who will understand the way you ride, and give you a personal fit! I always imagine that i have to see Dave's finger when I look down, and now my posture is better, i'm more comfortable, and i have so much fun
Can you please talk about the differences in gearing between hybrids and comfort bikes? I typically see differences in both the chainring ranges and cassette (freewheel) ranges between the two categories of bikes. For example, om your Cypress series, cassettes on the multspeed bikes range from 11-30, 11-32 14-34. Which would give one more climbing power, and conversely, which more downhill power? Which would be better for riding with traffic in a hilly city with traffic lights and stop signs (and then, the occasional country unpaved trail on the weekend)? If I find the frame that works, I want to make the right choice regarding the gearing. All advice would be gratefully appreciated! Thank you.
I have a question about handlebars. My bike is an upright riding hybrid and I ride 2-3 times per week about 15-20 miles. I love it, but find I am yearning for something faster with less resistance so I can go farther on the trail. I am looking at road bikes but because of a severe injury from horseback riding, my shoulder has had to undergo 4 surgeries. Now due to arthritis I am unable to tolerate the forward lean of most road bikes. Any suggestions?
Rather than getting into the minuteae of gearing and cassette ranges, our feedback to you would be to concentrate on getting a lighter weight bike. The differences between a 11-32 and 14-34 aren't that significant in the long run, but hauling extra (and unecessary) weight is going to make a BIG difference in a hilly city. The Cypresses and Sedonas are noticeably heavier-- great for flat or moderate terrain but tough for frequent climbs. The FCR would be a better bet-- but not as low in terms of step through.
I would suggest test riding various models and various gearing configurations on local hills.
Good luck!
Did the dealer give you and your son a proper fitting before your purchase? It seems a bit large for you and certainly too big for your son. And I am not so sure that you can ride the same bike because of your height differential.
The Boulder is an entry-level mountain bike, more suited to a hard trail ride than technical terrain. I am not familiar with your area, but I am hoping that dealer was able to match the bike to the terrain. If you are serious about riding off-road, then you might want to consider moving up to a bike better-suited for hardcore riding.
My suggestion would be to make a return trip to the dealer with your son. Ask for another fitting and that they make an inspection and adjustment to the derailleurs.
Keep us posted.
I hope someone could answer a few questions for me.
I recently bought a Giant Cypress for trail riding and commuting to work.
Im 5'5" tall and the dealer put me in a 17 inch frame. Is this the correct size for my height?
Also, when I was trying to familiarize myself with shifting the bike, I shifted down to 1st gear and the chain came off. Scared the daylights out of me.
I also hear a creaking sound in the handlebars when I peddle. Ive taken the bike back to the dealer and he tightened up the handle bars but then asked me if the bike had been crashed or dropped? I said "NO Ive only had it for three days and that I had not dropped or crashed it at all."
He just looked at me and said "ohh" didnt say anything else.
At the time the front brakes were rubbing against the tire and I told him the tire looked to be wobbling a tiny bit.
He adjusted the brakes to where they are no barely rubbing but they still are, just not a noticeable.
He didnt do anything about the tire.
I am planning to take the bike back into the dealer (I bought it on the 11th of this month so I havent even had it for a month yet.) tomorrow..what should I have them check out to be sure this bike is safe for me to ride both on paved trails and to commute to work?
Any help and advice would be great!
Thanks much in advance.
Jackie
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