Friday, 5/12/06 at 1:58 AM
by Kelli Poindexter
by Kelli Poindexter
Get to Know... The Types of Bikes
This is the first in series of blogs Sara and I are putting together to help you get familiar with all aspects of your current or future bike. We will start with the basics and build from there…
Types of Bikes
There are lots of types of bikes out there and every year manufacturers introduce new developments in bike technology by upgrading their bike lines and launching entirely new models. Categories of bikes include road, mountain, comfort, cruisers, folding, tandem, and recumbent…just to name a few. When you go to your local bike shop and start talking with the salesperson, it can get overwhelming. So, to start, let’s focus on the basics.
Road
Road bikes are intended for going far and fast and being efficient on the pavement. To be efficient, road bikes use skinny tires (usually 700 x23mm wide), which produce less friction with the pavement. Skinny tires and wheels also weigh less, which is a key difference between road bikes and other bikes. Road bikes are the lightest, fastest bikes out there. They can be subdivided into categories which reflect the purpose of the bike, such as performance or race.
Performance road bikes are designed more with the rider in mind. These bikes have features that make them a bit more comfortable especially on longer rides—relaxed geometries, extended headtube angles, longer wheel bases and possibly more steeply angled stems, among others. Performance bikes are great for long rides, centuries, touring and many are race worthy.
Race bikes, on the other hand, are designed with aerodynamics and maximum speed in mind. Tubing designs may be elongated to reduce wind resistance and headtube angles will be significantly steeper than on a performance bike.
Mountain
Mountain bikes are meant to be ridden primarily in the dirt. The explosion of mountain bikes in the general public happened in the 1980s. These mountain bikes had larger, knobbier tires that provided excellent traction and stronger frames that could withstand the rough ride of dirt trails. They had flat handlebars or bars with a slight rise that were wider than road bike bars and provided better control off-road.
In the 1990s, mountain bikes began using suspension forks, and later, in the rear of the bike to cushion the rough mountain trails. As suspension systems become more and more advanced, riders are finding they can push the edge and ride trails that never would have been possible before. Mountain bikes can also be divided into two main sub-categories, hardtails and full suspension. And then further into cross-country, trail, all-mountain, freeride, and downhill bikes.
Unlike road bikes, mountain bikes can go just about anywhere. They can be used as multi-purpose bikes—sometimes on the pavement, sometimes on the dirt. These bikes are quite slow on the pavement and they are too heavy to be efficient. On the pavement, knobby tires increase rolling resistance. However, by switching to a slick tire the resistance can be reduced. If a rider doesn’t care about speed or efficiency, a mountain bike can be a great way to own one bike that can do everything.
Comfort
One alternative to a pure mountain or road bicycle would is a comfort bike. Some riders don’t need the speed and efficiency of a road bike or the aggressive durability of a mountain bike. They may commute or get a little exercise around town. Maybe they’re getting a bike to hang out with their kids or run errands. They might be looking for a “hybrid” bike, a bike that takes desirable characteristics from both road and mountain bikes and blends them together to form something new.
For example, a performance comfort bike might have a road bike frame and wheels, mountain bike handlebar and drivetrain. On the other hand, pure comfort bikes usually have a mountain bike drivetrain and wheel size, but more slick tires for riding on pavement. As the name suggests, these bikes also have several comfort features, such as adjustable stems and suspension seatposts. Every year new variations of comfort bikes are released.
Please keep in mind this is barely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the number of types of bikes out there. Road, mountain, and comfort bikes are the basic types of bikes to consider when you start thinking about getting into cycling. What type of riding do you picture yourself doing?
- Kelli and Sara
Types of Bikes
There are lots of types of bikes out there and every year manufacturers introduce new developments in bike technology by upgrading their bike lines and launching entirely new models. Categories of bikes include road, mountain, comfort, cruisers, folding, tandem, and recumbent…just to name a few. When you go to your local bike shop and start talking with the salesperson, it can get overwhelming. So, to start, let’s focus on the basics.
Road
Road bikes are intended for going far and fast and being efficient on the pavement. To be efficient, road bikes use skinny tires (usually 700 x23mm wide), which produce less friction with the pavement. Skinny tires and wheels also weigh less, which is a key difference between road bikes and other bikes. Road bikes are the lightest, fastest bikes out there. They can be subdivided into categories which reflect the purpose of the bike, such as performance or race.
Performance road bikes are designed more with the rider in mind. These bikes have features that make them a bit more comfortable especially on longer rides—relaxed geometries, extended headtube angles, longer wheel bases and possibly more steeply angled stems, among others. Performance bikes are great for long rides, centuries, touring and many are race worthy.
Race bikes, on the other hand, are designed with aerodynamics and maximum speed in mind. Tubing designs may be elongated to reduce wind resistance and headtube angles will be significantly steeper than on a performance bike.
Mountain
Mountain bikes are meant to be ridden primarily in the dirt. The explosion of mountain bikes in the general public happened in the 1980s. These mountain bikes had larger, knobbier tires that provided excellent traction and stronger frames that could withstand the rough ride of dirt trails. They had flat handlebars or bars with a slight rise that were wider than road bike bars and provided better control off-road.
In the 1990s, mountain bikes began using suspension forks, and later, in the rear of the bike to cushion the rough mountain trails. As suspension systems become more and more advanced, riders are finding they can push the edge and ride trails that never would have been possible before. Mountain bikes can also be divided into two main sub-categories, hardtails and full suspension. And then further into cross-country, trail, all-mountain, freeride, and downhill bikes.
Unlike road bikes, mountain bikes can go just about anywhere. They can be used as multi-purpose bikes—sometimes on the pavement, sometimes on the dirt. These bikes are quite slow on the pavement and they are too heavy to be efficient. On the pavement, knobby tires increase rolling resistance. However, by switching to a slick tire the resistance can be reduced. If a rider doesn’t care about speed or efficiency, a mountain bike can be a great way to own one bike that can do everything.
Comfort
One alternative to a pure mountain or road bicycle would is a comfort bike. Some riders don’t need the speed and efficiency of a road bike or the aggressive durability of a mountain bike. They may commute or get a little exercise around town. Maybe they’re getting a bike to hang out with their kids or run errands. They might be looking for a “hybrid” bike, a bike that takes desirable characteristics from both road and mountain bikes and blends them together to form something new.
For example, a performance comfort bike might have a road bike frame and wheels, mountain bike handlebar and drivetrain. On the other hand, pure comfort bikes usually have a mountain bike drivetrain and wheel size, but more slick tires for riding on pavement. As the name suggests, these bikes also have several comfort features, such as adjustable stems and suspension seatposts. Every year new variations of comfort bikes are released.
Please keep in mind this is barely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the number of types of bikes out there. Road, mountain, and comfort bikes are the basic types of bikes to consider when you start thinking about getting into cycling. What type of riding do you picture yourself doing?
- Kelli and Sara
Comments
Anna
PS - I am in my late 40s and hope to be as spirited as you when I am in my 60s!
I got my 63 year old mom a comfort bike. There is no stopping her now. I ride an OCR3 and we have great rides together.
Sara
A cross bike might not be a bad idea depending on how long of a ride you have on gravel.
First, you might want to see what kind of clearance your road bike has to accomodate a wider road tire, possibly a 700/28c and give that a try before you trade out your bike. Giant's fitness road line could also work especially if you use a cross tire. I have been able to put up to a 700/32c slightly knobby tire on the FCR for a customer (check this with your size frame before purchasing). This type of tire gives you more stability and traction at a fairly high air preasure.
Sara
I'll enjoy training on my new toy in preparation for a 150 mile bike tour in July (which I have participated in twice before on my mountain bike!). I'm curious to see how much time I cut off with the OCR 3. Thanks for my new toy!
I, also, got an OCR 3 (small) and just love it! I rode a Gaint Hybrid before and took it on several week-long rides (Bike Ride Across Georgia) and loved it. It has taken me a little while to get used to the gears on the new one. My hybrid has numbers! But I feel comfortable now and did a 23 mile ride today. My friend Brenda got the same bike in xs and we enjoy riding together.
Linda N.
I want to get another bike with more spunk, one that doesn't feel so sluggish, but that won't slip out from under me on the paved trails.
I don't think I am into doing distance on roads routinely because of traffic danger and skin cancer problems, but I would like something that keeps up a little better than my Raleigh on paved trails and neighborhood streets. I also have joint problems in my shoulders and hips so need something with good shock absorption. Which of the Giant models would be the best? P.S. Another goal I have for this second bike is to take visitors with me on the paved trail rides, so mixing a road bike with my Raleigh would I think not work very well, since the person on the Raleigh would always have to struggle to keep up with a road bike.
There are different kinds of seats you can get I got a nice padded seat and a pair of padded bike underwear to help out. I can still only ride for a short time but at least its comfortable for the most part.
Try a Brooks saddle and padded shorts (seamless cushion only!). I'm 47 and my boyfriend bought me a Brooks and after the first ten minutes I swore I'd never have anything else. I can stay comfortable in the saddle up to 50 miles.
Look for a women's specific saddle, maybe a Terry Butterfly or something similar. Saddles made specifically for women are avaliable in most shops these days and any shop employee should be able to at least point you in the direction of the women's saddles. WTB (Wilderness Trail Bikes) also makes a variety of saddles that you might be interested in. If you want to research before you go the shop both Terry and WTB have info on their websites.
Sara
It seems as though meeting all of your goals could be a little difficult but I have a few suggestions.
You might want to look into the Giant Cypress for women. This a hybrid style bike with larger wheels (700c) which will help you stay with your riding group. It will still be comfortable and easy on the joints.
Another bike you might want to check out is the Giant FCR for women. This bike is more like a road bike than the Cypress, it does not have suspension but could still be a comfortable ride with a few minor adjustments.
Sara
thanks
love the ride
shanka
Getting a bike with more gears will provide you more riding options. Think about what kind of riding you want to do now, but also think about your cycling goals and what you'd like to achieve on your bike in the future. Internally geared hubs can be more problematic than external gears because it is recommended that you shift differently (you must stop pedaling and then shift) and most new riders don't know this. External gears on the rear only can be troublesome (not as smooth shifting) with only one chain ring on the front. I would recommend getting a fully geared bike (21 or 24 speeds) to give you the best possibilities for your riding now and in the future. Compare the Cypress DX to the Suede DX. These bikes have different geometries and thus sitting positions will be different even though they both have adjustable stems. You'll go faster on the Cypress with its 700c wheels. The Suede runs 26" wheels, which are smaller and run a wider tire with more surface area for a more comfortable ride (closer to a cruiser styled bike). Give them both a good test ride again and have a great time on your new bike!
Basics like picking the right gear at the right time, spinning, drafting, good posture that maximizes power and comfort, and climbing, just to name a few, seem to be foreign to a lot of women riders on the road. I often ride along and literally see women struggling on their bikes just because they don't know how to use their bike to its, as well as, their, fullest potential. Yes, I see men too, but the women seem to havea particularly difficult time. You don't have to be a racer to learn and enjoy skills used by racers.
It seems to me that if Giant really wanted to help women become more knowledgable riders, they could offer web information specific to these common issues, and perhaps even ride clinics through Giant dealers.
Thanks Kelli for the information. This has been the best explanation of the differences b/t internal and external gears. I'd already ordered my bike when I read your reply. I went w/the Suede GX. I can see where the DX would've offered advantages w/the additional gears. So far though, it's been great. Maybe later will get a Sedona to do different types of trails, but the Suede has been an excellent bike to get me "back in the saddle". Good job Giant!
Kim
Thanks Giant, I saw your reply to my question about what the OCR stood for on another string in the blog.
Oversize Compact Road....I sure could feel the difference between the TCR and OCR. I liked that relazed fit of the OCR better.
Road bikes
Aggressive road with dropped handlebars
Jules has got to gnarl. She’s probably barking up the wrong tree but she loves to go fast and has this racer baby background so even though her 47 year old neck would prefer a more upright position, she’s still riding these hardcore aggressive take the money and run bikes. She’s on an Italian steel road bike that positively screams on the downhill but hit a bump oh baby there’s absolutely no mercy cos you are gonna go flying into the ozone and then when you finally hit the ground oh pray hard it never happens, you will be a goner. And your bike will be toast. Totally. At her age she should be looking at a different riding style instead of screaming downhill at 53 mph. As a friendly customer once said, Neck pain isn’t yogic. He’s so right.
Jules is riding something fast and lean and mean and painful that’s twitchy and touchy and tweaky and the slightest little nothing she’s off the road into the brush. There is no mercy here. She just loves it and goes home to treat her sore neck with a long hot shower, Chinese plasters and arnica rub at night. On weekends, she visits her favorite spa and sits in the whirlpool with the jet right against her neck. Sure there are road bikes out there that are a bit less hardcore, and she could always get a more upright stem and have a nicer ride but a slower day. For now, since Jules won’t budge and insists on sticking to the old school style ride, we’ll call that creature an aggressive road bike.
Aggressive road with flat handlebars
Betty likes to ride her bike to work. She’s got a lot of stress because she’s a corporate attorney in a big firm and works downtown. Traffic is horrendous and there’s no parking at all. Sometimes she has to work late at night on briefs and then she’s dealing with the danger of street life in parking garages after dark. She’s already been stalked a few times, called the police yada yada and pretty much had enough of dealing with walking to her car after dark. Betty’s a single thirty something woman living in a big city with a high paced corporate job, no real life to speak of other than her career (she may make partner in her firm if she can work long enough hours) and she really needs to have something in her life other than work.
One day, after yet another close parking garage incident, Betty decided to take matters into her own hands and bike to work. There’s an advantages of biking to work. Her company has showers and she’s got her own office where she parks her bike, so she can hammer to work and still arrive freshly showered for her multiple morning meetings that stress her out to no end but at least she got some exercise. On that fateful day during the hour long lunch she allows herself, Betty strolled into her local downtown totally boutique bike shop and picked out the perfect $1k bike for her very fast ride to work and home. Betty needed something lean and mean that would go very fast and take some abuse.
She’s now stylin big time on a Specialized road bike with flat handlebars and a body fat index of under 10%. This bad girl bike is solid black, with nothing extra on it but a couple of bar ends for climbing hills. It has skinny 700x 23cc tires, weighs in at under 22 pounds and goes very very fast. The flat handlebars allow Betty to see what’s in front of her and handle the bumps that only a big city can dish out. Betty is in an aggressive forward lean position that puts her in control and leaves little to the imagination. She’s riding clipless pedals with a small Camelbak pack, an Co2 inflator in case of a flat, a tight jersey, shorts, tights, shoes and nothing else.
Betty prefers to travel light and have her bike serviced at the shop where she bought it rather than worry about maintenance. She takes her little machine in once a month for a tune up because she abuses it so badly on the city streets. She’s got special liners in the tires to ensure that she doesn’t’ have to deal with a flat late at night after delivering yet another brief to another high profile client. Betty can ride her bike through town faster than she could ever drive, so her car remains parked in the garage while she gets fitter and fitter riding fast in and fast out. Oh, and by the way, she saw her harasser walking down the street one day, same guy who stalked her in the parking lot at night. She rode up to him feeling pretty mad, and she was looking tight with all black with a black helmet, gloves and shoes. She got right up next to him silently, before he even realized who she was. Betty said, “You ever even so much as look at me again and you are going to eat my bike pump.” He literally ran down the street to get away from her. Funny how city life can be sometimes. One minute you are getting stalked, the next minute you are confronting your stalker. Betty now has much less stress in her life and by the way, she just made partner in her firm. She rides an aggressive road bike with flat handlebars.
Cyclocross
This is the perfect bike for everything. You can bang it you can toss it you can carry it around. It’s got a fat/skinny frame with dropped handlebars, the frame is so tight it puts you right over these handlebars with your arms down low on the handles. The cyclocross bike is available now with disc or cantilever brakes, 700cc knobby tires, two to three front chain rings and plenty of attitude. This bike goes fast and can handle a variety of rough stuff, including city pavement, dirt, trails and creeks. Whether or not you want to ride this level of variety on a bike that looks like a road bike with fatter tires, I don’t know. Should you take the cyclocross bike where it’s intended to go, out on the race trail that is also used for mountain bikes, you’ll discover what it’s really like to ride the trails without any extras. Cyclocross is old school European racing at its finest. This type of bike has been around since before mountain bikes were invented, and can be compared to mountain biking as soccer might be compared to football. A cyclocross bike can be used by the experienced rider for fast down and dirty city commuting, and for bicycle messengering. They are around $700 up, and well worth the price. A cyclocross bike looks somewhat like a fat road bike, or a squished up touring bike. The sharp angled seat tube and frame geometry demands an aggressive riding style and will get you where you are going very fast. I wish I had one of these babies. Maybe then I’d quit riding my Masi road bike offroad.
There's more of course.
Peace,
Jules
This site is great. I have a question about my bike. A year ago I bought a Jamis Aragon to tool around the city and ride to work, maybe ride for a few hours on the weekends. I hadn't had a bike since I was a kid, and now I absolutely love it. I'm thinking of doing a Century Ride and trying to talk my mom into doing it with me, and I'm wondering if it's crazy to ride a comfort/hybrid bike like this for 100 miles. It's of course heavy and slow, but I don't really mind that (speed isn't my thing). I like working hard to get it go at medium speed--it's a good workout. In any case, what's your opinion on this?
Thanks a lot.
cathy
I've done a lot of century rides. Before you decide to ride the century on a bike that's clearly not meant for long distance, I recommend you first experience 20, 40, 60, and 80 mile rides. It's definitely not a good idea to just start out assuming you'll comfortably finish a century if you've never trained by riding comparable milage in comparable terrain.
That way, you'll enjoy the experience and have an idea of what your body will do after 40 miles.
Secondly, I definitely advise finding a different bike for the century, such as a road bike. If you can borrow one from a friend to train on and get ready for the century, you will be much better off. Even the healthiest athlete won't want to work as hard as you'll be working if you ride your comfort hybrid for 100 miles...especially without a steady training schedule for several months beforehand.
Peace,
Jules
Depending on what your desired exercise outcome is, and where you live, the Sedona may or may not be the correct bike for you. Are you athletic? Do you want to ride uphill and long distances? Do you prefer to sit very upright and just cruise around casually on a flat bike path? A good bike shop will help you discover the correct bike within your price range to enable you to do what you really want on the bike.
I'd definitely recommend checking your local bike shop and actually sitting on a bike or two, then test riding them. Have the ladies/lads at the bike shop fit you properly to your prospective new bike. Find a shop local to you, and one that will take your concerns seriously.
Being fitted to the bike is crucial. I will include here an unpublished chapter of my Women's Bike Book, which explains the fit in detail. This is an expanded version of the Fit chapter in my first book, published in 1999, which can be found here: http://www.cyclepublishing.com/cyclingbooks/wg.html
Riding On, Om Shanti,
Jules (see below)
Chapter Five: Get serious about proper fit on your bike
The Herstory of proper fit (copyright Julie Harrell 2007)
Women used to have great difficulty finding a bike that fit right off the store room floor, because most mountain bikes and many road bikes were designed for men. In general, women have longer legs, a shorter torso, and shorter arms than men of the same size. Mountain bikes were once designed with long top tubes and long stems, which meant that the average woman would be stretched out beyond her comfort level on every mountain bike she tested.
These days, manufacturers realize the buying potential of women, and have taken care to create generic, off the shelf bicycles with a shorter, sometimes downward sloping top tube, shorter stem and shorter seat tube. The woman-friendly bike designs have even more features. Companies such as Specialized and Giant have created an entire line of women’s specific models that also feature shorter handlebar width, shorter crank arms and smaller brake levers. It’s not necessary to purchase only a woman’s bicycle however, as the majority of women will be able to find a bike off the shelf that will fit them, providing you are willing to do your homework.
There are some tried and true rules a woman can follow to find the perfect fit. Knowing how to set up your own bike will increase your chances of a successful fit once you step into the bike shop. We’ll begin with the easiest bike to fit, the mountain bike, then proceed to more complicated fitting required for a road bike. My advice is, purchase a tape measure with inches and centimeters. You’ll need to measure bikes for yourself, and to assist the sales people, should they need it, in measuring your stand over height, leg length, arm length, and shoulder width. Before we get started, I’d like to say a few words about computerized fitting via the Body Scanner.
The Body Scanner is a tool that helps you and the sales people define exactly what type of riding you are most likely to engage in, and what type of bike is best for that riding style. It can be useful if you want a quick fit on your comfort bike, but it is not intended to perform fine tuning such as is needed for a road bike. I say this because I called up the Body Scanning tech support line and asked them specifically about the various uses of this machine. Being old school, I prefer to query the customer myself rather than use a gadget to record their information, punch in the numbers and use a print out to hand to the mechanic so he can use his Body Scanning tool to make the adjustments. I carry around an Alien tool in the shop with a tape measure and do all my own fitting adjustments for customers. I’m not saying you won’t like the Body Scanning experience, I’m just saying it’s not something I used while working at the bike shop, even though the owner wished I would. Now we’ll talk about fitting your bike the old school way.
Comfort bikes, mountain bikes and road bikes
frequently have sizes printed on the frame to give you an idea of how large or small the bike is before you sit on it. For example, some companies have XS, S, M, L and XL on their mountain bike frames. Other companies will print the sizes numerically, which can be a little confusing if you are not used to knowing that a size 18 bike means 18 inches from the center of the seat tube to the center of the crank, or from the top of the seat tube to the center of the crank, depending on how that individual company is measuring their bikes from which spot on the frame. What’s a seat tube and what’s a crank, right? Bike companies measure frames using a highly unregulated and non-standardized measuring system that seems to change every year, but one thing is clear: You can whip out the old tape measure and follow the guidelines in this chapter to find the perfect fit, regardless of what letters or numbers the bike frame has stamped on it.
Here’s a tip: The seat tube length used to be directly proportional to how much stand over height you would have when straddling the bike. Now that many bikes are built with sloping top tubes, straddle height is still critical, but a seat tube length measurement may not be indicative of the bike size overall. If you can straddle the bike, leaving at least two or more inches of crotch clearance between yourself and the top tube, the bike basically fits, height wise. Depending on what style of riding you are doing, you will need to also look at body extension and the degree of angle bend in your back.
Crucial to a good fit is that you are comfortable on the saddle, regardless of bike type. To ensure this, make the seat level by adjusting the seatpost clamp underneath it. Usually takes an Allen key. I generally push the seat all the way back and then slowly come forward before switching stems. You should be right in the middle of the seat, but the seat may be completely back on the post, or it may be in the middle. This is a fine tuning adjustment that always works. In case you have a bad seat, one that doesn’t fit your body etc, you can try this first, then switch seats using the same technique. You’ll find a good one that’s right for you.
Comfort bikes
Comfort bikes are already built with an inherently upright rider position, meaning you can’t stretch out on them to climb uphill. They have a fat saddle for a good reason, because you will really be using your sit bones on these bikes. There’s just not much room to stand up and pedal, which would require leaning over on the bike when it’s designed to keep you upright. Let’s say you are 5’4 with a 30 inch inseam. Off the cuff, I’d say you’ll ride a smallish comfort bike, but because your legs are long, you’ll find that that smallish comfort bike places you in such an upright position it’s not comfortable.
The medium comfort bike may be a little large for you, but the position is more comfortable because you have a slight bend in your back. If you want to bend over even more, let’s say you are athletic and are looking for a bike to work out on, but thought you really needed to go with the most laid back and cozy looking ride you could find, consider checking out the recreational mountain bikes and putting a women’s saddle on one.
Recreational mountain bikes
Depending on which company you are looking at, these bikes are built for comfort and some degree of versatility. The Giant Boulder is a classic example of a bike that can be used for working out and also for just cruising around the neighborhood. Even though at first glance it looks like a gnarly mountain bike, it’s actually set up for a more upright but not too upright rider position. The frame angle is designed for a pretty laid back ride, but the rider can also stand up and pedal uphill without feeling like they are standing straight up. Rider position is the fine line between comfort bikes and recreational mountain bikes, city cruisers, town bikes, etc. These days, bikes are built with the rider’s intended use as the impetus for design.
What is primarily missing in the comfort bike, and somewhat missing in the recreational mountain bike, is the rider’s ability to negotiate rough terrain due to a non-aggressive riding position. These bikes are designed with long head tubes (where the handlebar stem is connected to the frame), which means that the handlebars are farther away from the wheel than a bike designed with shorter head tube. The farther away from the wheel, the less control the rider has over the bike. With comfort bikes, there is the additional distance added by the rider sitting upright with outstretched straight arms, rather than leaning forward with bent arms.
Performance is the trade off you make when purchasing bikes entirely for comfort, which is why I encourage some women riders to at least test ride non-comfort bikes once they are fitted with the proper stem and seat. A non-comfort bike can be quite comfortable with the correct adjustments, and it will out perform most varieties of comfort bike seen in shops today.
Mountain bikes
You can get as hardcore as you like with an aggressive mountain bike. Similar to a road bike design, the rider position on these babies is stretched out over the front wheel. You’ll have more bend in your back and much more control over the bike in rough terrain. When sizing your bike off the shelf, jump on it and try to leap forward over the top tube while still straddling the bike. This is my ultimate quick fit test that always works in the shop. If you can’t jump off the seat and onto the top tube without hurting yourself, then the bike is too big. Two inches of crotch clearance is required, ladies. This is also the test I use for kid bikes, because even though mom and dad might want little junior to “grow into his bike,” it just doesn’t work once he tries the jumping over the top tube test. For your mountain bike, which I assume you will drop $500 or more to purchase, please review the rest of this chapter to learn how to adjust your seat properly and to decide if you may need a new stem.
Road bikes
Road bikes are sized using centimeters for more exact measurements. Today’s off the shelf road bikes (meaning stock bicycles rather than specialized frames) generally will have some sort of sizing stamped onto them, but you will still need to fine tune your fit to dial it into perfection. The rules of fitting road bike frames are similar to fitting mountain bikes. You will need adequate crotch clearance and your intended riding style will dictate how stretched out over the bike is preferable.
Standover height
Standover height is easily measured by taking a contractor’s square (metal L-shaped measuring device) and standing against a perfectly plumb, vertical wall. You hold one leg of the L between your legs, until it touches that most sensitive part, with the vertical leg of the L lying vertically down against the wall. Have someone measure from the top of the horizontal leg of the L to the floor and you will have your exact standover height. This measurement will make your initial search relatively simple, as you can measure each bike yourself from the top of the top tube to the floor and compare it with your standover height. It does help to wear the shoes you will wear to ride your bike. Give yourself at least 1.5 inches of clearance for the road bike, and 2-4 inches for the mountain bike.
More on sizing methods
Some bikes fit better than others. Why does one 18 inch mountain bike fit better than another 18 inch mountain bike? Or one Medium bike fit better than another Medium? Frankly I liked it better when all the companies at least measured numerically, because then the process of elimination was simpler. Today, as in yesterday, you’ll discover that an 18 inch mountain bike may really have a 17 inch seat tube, measured from the top of the top tube to the center of the crank. The extended inch or so of extra seat tube found on some, not all, mountain bikes, will have no bearing whatsoever on the actual fit of your new bike, which is why some companies base their measurements from center to center. The following are some rough guestimates to give you an idea of what I’m talking about.
If you are approximately 5 foot 7 inches tall, you will most likely ride a 17.5 or an 18 inch mountain bike. The 17.5 bike may be measured from the top of the seat tube, making it really a 17 inch or a 16.5 inch bike. This bike will fit fine if you don’t have extra long legs, like I do. If you have extra long legs, with a 34 inch inseam, you may need to buy the 18 inch bike, which is really a 17 or a 17.5-inch, depending on where it is measured. If the other manufacturer measures a 17-inch model from the top of the seat tube, adding an extra inch, you may think that since you ride an 18-inch in one, you should ride a 17-inch in another. Close enough right? Well, not exactly. The 17-inch model will actually be closer to a 16-inch if it has been measured from the top of the seat tube. This bike is too small for you.
How can you tell if a bike is too small or too large? First, know your standover height. Then, straddle the bike that seems closest to your physique. If you have a couple of inches to spare, you can at least presume the bike is not too large. However, if you feel incredibly crunched up when you test ride it, unless the stem is really short, you may need to test ride a bike by another manufacturer. Bicycles are rarely unavailable in all sizes, but the shop may be low on a certain size because they had a busy weekend or you may be one of those in between people who are going to almost, but not quite, fit on two different sizes.
An example of this sizing problem is a woman who is 5 foot 8 with a 30-inch inseam, or a woman who is 5 foot 6 with a 32-inch inseam. Both women will fit either a 17-inch or an 18-inch mountain bike if they have an average torso length for their height. Since a 16-inch mountain bike is usually more like a 15-inch, I don’t recommend that size for anyone over 5 foot 5 unless she has an inseam of 29-inches or less.
The 5 foot 8 woman will not have much crotch clearance on an 18-inch mountain bike, and feel crunched up on the 17-inch bike, which will allow for plenty of clearance but not enough top tube length to accommodate her long torso. The 5 foot 6 woman will comfortably straddle the 17-inch bike, but will need quite a bit of seatpost showing to accommodate her extra long legs.
Rules to remember
I know, rules right? But there are a few and if you follow them your fit situation will improve dramatically. Level the seat before doing anything else. Move the seat all the way back then slowly work it forward to get the perfect fit. You need at least two inches of crotch clearance from the top tube to comfortably ride your mountain bike off road. The mountain bike allows you to use various hand positions, which are different than those used with a road bike. Road bikes require less crotch clearance, but you still need to be able to jump off the bike onto the top tube without hurting yourself, so one and a half inches is a good place to start. You will be locked onto your road bike for longer periods of time so the fit should be absolutely perfect.
Stem and brakes
We’ve discussed stem and brakes a bit, so let’s take it one step further. Your stem should have a slight rise, unless you ride some kind of sick downhill or hardcore racing road bike, in which case you will have a negative rise in your stem. The really hardcore could care less about pain, and need that kind of negative rise to get the most performance possible from their bikes, but we’ll stick to those of us who are into performance with only a little pain, rather than performance with a lot of pain. LOL!
As I was saying, you should not feel too crunched up or stretched out when grasping the handlebars. Your handlebars, on a road bike, should be fairly close to your shoulder length. On a mountain bike, you may find initially that wider handlebars make the bike easier to handle. Eventually, narrower handlebars that accommodate your shoulder width will be the most efficient with optimal performance. Kind of like a surfboard, the big long fatties will allow you to stand up and surf little breaks, but the smaller guns make the wave your playground.
When you grasp the brake levers on your mountain bike, they should fit nicely into your hands without undue stretching on your part. If they do not, have the shop adjust the brake levers on the handlebars. There’s a little hex screw that turns in using a number 2 metric Allen key if you want to do it yourself. This will shorten the distance required to brake the bike if you have smaller hands or shorter fingers.
Saddle
Your saddle is everything and again, it should be exactly level. While riding you should not be seated toward the rear of the saddle, nor on the tip. I see people (usually guys, no offense intended!) riding their bikes all the time with their saddles tilted up to the extreme or tilted down to the extreme. This is not a good fit but they are used to it. I suggest you find a comfy (not huge, fat or overly cushioned) saddle that is designed for fit women riders. Search until you find the right one for you and work with a shop who understands the importance of a perfect saddle. These babies are simple to remove from the seatpost and if the saddle doesn’t work right, trust me, nothing else will either.
Seatpost position
When first adjusting your seatpost length, find a position that will allow you to sit with your leg almost fully extended, with a slight bend in the knee, while riding. To find this adjustment, first place your foot on the pedal with the ball of your foot exactly flat, while the pedal is horizontal. Place a plumb line at the bony protrusion located at the bottom of your knee cap and the top of your shin bone. When dropped, it should directly intersect with the center of the pedal spindle. Adjust the saddle either forward or backward to achieve this line. If your seatpost is too extended, your hips will rock from side to side when you pedal. If your seatpost is not extended enough, your knees will have more bend, which can cause muscle strain and other problems.
Ideal position
The ideal position places your body at a 90-degree angle when measured with arms locked. Some women like to sit more upright, while others want to be more stretched out. As mentioned earlier, these variations in rider position will directly affect your ability to negotiate paths, trails, roads and bumps with your bike. The 90-degree angle is optimal for performance. This means that while you are seated and riding the bike, your arms are at 45 degrees, and your legs are at 45 degrees.
If you prefer to initially ride in a more upright position, remember that you sacrifice climbing efficiency and offer greater wind resistance which will lead to earlier fatigue. You can always change your stem as your riding ability improves, thus achieving the preferred 90-degree angle at a later date. Please note: this only applies to road and mountain bikes, as the comfort bike is not designed to accommodate a rider position of 90-degrees.
Pedals
I personally can’t use clipless pedals due to an ankle injury, but if you can manage them, they are very helpful for road bikes. Clipless pedals do not come with traditional toeclips, and require special shoes to “click” into the pedal. Find pedals that allow for “float,” as most do these days. This will enable your feet to move around horizontally upon the pedal without wrenching your knees. Try to keep your feet as close together as possible. This means you need to find a crank set, pedals and shoes that do not place your feet too far apart. If you are used to wearing high heels, you can either relearn how to place your foot horizontally on the pedal, or have the bike adjusted to accommodate your different stride.
Mountain bikes do great with both clipless and BMX platform pedals, and comfort bikes generally are fine with the flat pedals that are already installed on the bike. The trusty toe clip pedal is still available for those who want to strap onto their pedals.
Whatever you ride, and however you ride it, as long as you are comfortable you’ll have a blast on your new bike. I hope this chapter has helped you understand the mechanics of fit as they apply to your riding style.
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